We stop for lunch delicious chicken with dates and rice in a mud house with mats on the floor while a sandstorm whips up outside. The surrounding waters are some of the richest fishing waters in western Africa and serve as nesting grounds for the fish in the entire western region. Stop at the sign and wait to be waved forward. Nouadhibou to Choum Waypoint: We stopped at the park headquarters to confirm our authorization to visit the reserve before entering the tiny village on the shoreline. The golden and creamy white sand of the desert is pure and silky to the touch. Maaden to Azoueiga Waypoint:

The regions of Tiris Zemmour, Adrar and Hodh ech Chargui are vast empty stretches of dunes alternating with granite outcroppings. Many Chinguetti homes, with acacia-wood doors leading to courtyard interiors, now lie abandoned and half-buried in sand. Its old libraries are full of ancient books of poetry and astronomy, leather-bound and etched in gold, though sadly at the one we visit, Fondation al Ahmed Mahmoud, the books sit in cardboard boxes, caked in dust. We straddle the lip of one gigantic dune, only to find a view of another. Iwik to Nouadhibou Waypoint: We spend our first night at Auberge Diaguili , a six-bedroom riad owned by a French-Mauritanian couple.

The residents are mostly Imraguen, a small tribe believed to descend from the Bafour peoplepre-Berber inhabitants of present-day Mauritania and the Western Sahara, who relate many of their customs to the natural environment. I imagined it to be similar.

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Hard-pushed to pinpoint Mauritania on a map? We stop and Zac, our four-year-old, enjoys leading a camel off into the sand. Frequently there will not be tergir standing outside, just a small round red sign on the side of the road about 20 or 50 meters before the guard shack.

Others place the priority on getting more development assistance as compensation for accepting restrictions. Leaving Nouakchott we pass through a series of checkpoints manned by a variety of security forces. You may select the license of your choice.

Cinéma mauritanien

The biggest challenge is effective surveillance and administration over so vast an area. The pistes are well-defined approaching Iwik where fiml will camp for the night on the coast. Goats roamed freely, and the beach was a collage of fishing nets, wooden boats, shells, and refuse all intermingled.


Three men who look after us, form firm friendships with our children and whip up scrumptious desert feasts.

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If you have a head for adventure, it makes the ideal family holiday: Chatter and laughter fill the room as Mohamedou, Mohamed Lemine, our driver, and Saliq, our cook, play with our boys.

Hassaniya is derived from the beduin Arabic spoken by the Bani Hassan tribe, who extended their authority over most of the Mauritanian Sahara between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries. Sand dunes mauritani past our windshield as we drive northward. This page was last edited on 18 Marchat Then I was footloose and fancy-free; now I have two children. Ouadane is an old town built from terracotta rock, rising from, and blending into, the surrounding maurltanie.

I ask for directions to a particular building. Back across a wide oued dry river bed flanked by dunes is the new town of dry-stone houses with low windows against the heatflat palm roofs and traditional triangle motifs cut into the walls. From Chinguetti, we ride camels into the desert, and out of the glare we suddenly see an incongruously green oasis. Village women use the shells with beads and pieces of cleaned and polished fish vertebrae to make necklaces or bracelets. One thing does dismay my husband, however.

Structured data Captions English Add a one-line explanation of what this file represents. By patrolling their own waters and reporting incursions from foreign fleets or motorised vessels, the fishermen provide a level of surveillance that the park administration would be unable to carry out alone.

I hear shrill ululating cries from inside a windowless stone room, then frenzied drumming. Yet we meet foreigners working here who assure us it is not dangerous the Spanish embassy recently lifted its ban and we certainly feel safe.

Ouadane to Richat Waypoint: It is best to drive cautiously and be prepared to stop at short notice. Between these ridges are depressions filled with limestone and clayey sand capable of supporting vegetation after a rain.


Food is eaten sitting cross-legged on the ground, using our hands. Now Unesco-listed, they grew to be prosperous towns in the middle ages. Loading comments… Trouble loading? This file contains additional information such as Exif metadata which may have been added by the digital camera, scanner, or software program used to create or digitize it.

Mauritania — Enroute: Nouakchott to Iwik

As the sun sinks quickly, Mohamedou, Mohamed Lemine and Saliq bow to pray in unison. Drivers should stop, sound their horn, and pause for an adequate amount of time before proceeding through the checkpoint to avoid any type of confrontation. The official language is Arabic, though the regional dialect is Hassaniya, and many people also speak French Mauritania gained independence from France in They are viewed as the descendants mauritani former black slaves that were originally taken from along the river, Mali or Senegal.

Without one, we would have fiom stop and give in all our documents then wait while the security forces write down our information.

Its old libraries are full of ancient books of poetry and astronomy, leather-bound and etched in gold, though sadly at the one we visit, Fondation al Ahmed Mahmoud, the books sit in cardboard boxes, caked in dust. Terrorism is not Islam. Iwik is one of seven traditional fishing villages within the protected area. But the trucks move as fast as they are able, sometimes kicking up lots of lose sand and gravel in their wake. Dunes in the far north shift with the wind more than those in the south.

A short sweet explosion of hot liquid, heated in the sand over coals. From the Arctic to the Sahara, this unstoppable pick up has earned trust and admiration for its off-road capabilities and endurance.